Looking at the structure, I decided to add another 2x4 immediately underneath the roof ridge to a) add stability and b) provide a wider surface upon which to mount the electrical conduit pipe that would hold the bird feeders. Based on the reading, we trimmed a post and then fixed the fittings and the 2圆 in place with screws. We placed the metal fittings on top of the 4x4 posts without screws and set the 8 ft long 2圆 on top so that we could check to see if it was level (of course it wasn't). I thought we would need to secure the ducting with a screw or two, but it holds tight with just a friction fit. We had to sand down the corners on the posts in a few places in order to adjust the placement of the ducting on the post. NOTE: trying to set the ducting into a round shape was infuriating until I looked up a video on the easiest way to do it. Finally, we put the 5" diameter ducting down over the posts. The cardboard tubes were a bit proud of the ground, but those can be trimmed later (I intend to pave that side yard eventually, so I just left them proud for now). The next weekend, we removed the bracing and covered over the top of the concrete with the dirt we removed from the holes. We used a stick to tamp down the concrete around the posts, then left them to set (sorry, should have taken a picture at this point). Then we mixed up the two bags of Quickrete and put one in each hole around the posts. We placed one 4x4 post in each of the holes, inside the tubes, and braced them using various materials we had on hand. Next, we cut the cardboard concrete tube in half using a hand saw, and placed one half in each of the holes, on top of the stones. Then we threw all the stones we hit while digging the holes into the bottom. We dug 2 holes approximately 25 inches deep and about 10 inches wide with a post-hole digger. The window is 7 foot wide, so we positioned the posts to line up with the ends of the window. The tools we used: circular saw, hand saw, drill, speed square, staple gun, post-hole digger, hammer, 2-way post level, level, angle grinder. NOTE: I got most of my metal fittings from Habitat for Humanity's Restore at a great price since they sell them by the pound. These items were a mixture of purchased items and ones we had on hand, so I am sure improvements/changes could be made in the materials list. Other dimensions can be changed to suit whatever materials you may have on hand.Here are the items we used for our build:ġ - cardboard concrete tube (cut in half), we used an 8" wide tubeħor 8 - treated or untreated 2x4x8 lumber (they are not in contact with the ground, so we used untreated)Ģ - untreated 1x4x8 lumber (you will have quite a bit left over)ġ - 4x8x3/4 exterior grade plywood (cut in half lengthwise by the DIY store)ġ - 8 ft length of 3/4 metal electrical conduit pipeġ - package of 3-tab asphalt shingles (I got a damaged package from Home Depot for $10)ġ - roll of asphalt paper (you will have LOTS left over after this project)Ĥ - EMT straps (U-shaped ones with a hole at each end)Ģ - 1-9/16-in x 3-9/16-in Rafter Ties (this holds a 2x4 on top of the 4x4 post) It fits flush into the bottom of the pipe so that there are no protrusions for a squirrel to hang on to. The wood block will be cut down to fit into the bottom of the pipe to act as the base plate. The pipe must also be at least 4" in diameter so that the squirrel can't cling to the feeder. For maximum anti-squirrel effectiveness, the plastic drain pipe must be at least 24" long so that the squirrel can't reach feed holes while hanging from the top of the feeder. When used as perches, they won't support a squirrel's weight. a 6" long piece of 1圆 board) Note on Materials: The cable ties are critical. Quantity: at least 4 - wood block approx 6" high x 6" wide x 1" thick (i.e. Quantity 4 - 10 gauge (about 1/10") galvanized wire at least 33" long. Quantity 1 - PVC glue - 3/8" sheet metal screws. Quantity: 1 (a 10' pipe cost me $5.48) - 1/2 " PVC couplers. 4" diameter plastic drain pipe at least 24" long.
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